Viewed 6k times. Any pointers appreciated! Jeff Jeff 31 1 1 silver badge 2 2 bronze badges. Active Oldest Votes.
Marc B Marc B k 33 33 gold badges silver badges bronze badges. Hmm, I hadn't even considered that the MP3 could be in the. I want to extract the individual MP3 frames, I think. That'd leave off the id3 v1 and v2 tags, so I should be able to get a tag independent hash out of that A long while back I poked at doing an mp3 decoder, even went so far as to get copies of the ISO spec for the file On top of that, an mp3 can be interlaced with mpeg video - the mp3 format is designed to be easily embeddable in pretty much anything, making it VERY hard to determine with perfect accuracy where mp3 audio frames actually are.
I purchased a Sony digital voice recorder. I can mount the file system under Linux, but I haven't been able to find where it stores the track marks. I'd like to extract this before and after adding a track mark to see if my track marks are hiding in here.
So here's another vote for an answer which explains how to extract specific frames, and not necessarily just the audio frames. Jason Pepas Jason Pepas 3 3 silver badges 10 10 bronze badges. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google. Sign up using Facebook. Sign up using Email and Password. Post as a guest Name. Email Required, but never shown.
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Retrieved January 18, Retrieved December 19, We later removed this chip, and soldered a wire from the input to the output pin where the chip used to be.
We now use a regulated computer power supply to get a stable high current 5V supply. If you don't have the parts necessary to build a 5V PSU, you can buy one. About 15 bucks will get you a nice PSU. This is what we have been using to power the LED cube. PC power supplies are nice, because they have regulated 12V and 5V rails with high Ampere ratings.
If you want to use an ATX power supply, you have to connect the green wire on the motherboard connector to ground black. This will power it up. External hard drive enclosures are especially nice to use as power supplies. They already have a convenient enclosure. The only thing you have to do is to add external power terminals.
Power supplies have a lot of wires, but the easiest place to get the power you need is through a molex connector. That is the kind of plug you find on hard drives before the age of S-ATA.
We have 12V output, 5V output with an ampere meter and 5V output without an ampere meter. We use the second 5V output to power an 80mm PC fan to suck or blow fumes away when we solder. We won't get into any more details of how to make a power supply here. I'm sure you can find another instructable on how to do that.
There are many things to consider when choosing LEDs. Therefore we strongly recommend using diffused LEDs. A diffused LED will be more or less equally bright from all sides.
Clear LEDs also create another problem. If your cube is made up of clear LEDs. This creates some unwanted ghosting effects. Shipping them back to China to receive a replacement would have taken too much time, so we decided to used the clear LEDs instead. It works fine, but the cube is a lot brighter when viewed from the top as opposed to the sides.
Maybe we should have taken the hint ; Defusing is something you do to a bomb when you want to prevent it from blowing up, hehe. We went with 3mm LEDs because we wanted the cube to be as "transparent" as possible.
Our recommendation is to use 3mm diffused LEDs. But keep in mind that the quality of the product may be reflected in it's price. With 3mm round LEDs, all you need is a 3mm drill bit. The cube design in this instructable uses the legs of the LEDs themselves as the skeleton for the cube. There are three things to consider when choosing the value of your resistors, the LEDs, the 74HC that drive the LEDs, and the transistors used to switch the layers on and off.
Usually, there are two ratings, one mA for continuous load, and mA for burst loads. You have to keep within the specified maximum mA rating for the output pins. This gives you 6. If your LEDs draw 20mA each, that would mean that you have to switch on and off 1. The only transistors we had available had a maximum rating of mA. We ended up using resistors of ohms. We wanted to make the LED cube using as few components as possible. We had seen some people using metal rods for their designs, but we didn't have any metal rods.
Many of the metal rod designs also looked a little crooked. We figured that the easiest way to build a led cube would be to bend the legs of the LEDs so that the legs become the scaffolding that holds the LEDs in place. By choosing a LED spacing of 25mm, there would be a 1mm overlap for soldering. Seeing all the way through to the furthest layer wouldn't be a problem. We could have made the cube smaller, but then we would have to cut every single leg, and visibility into the cube would be compromised.
Our recommendation is to use the maximum spacing that your LED can allow. Add 1mm margin for soldering. Whenever Myth Busters are testing a complex myth, they start by some small scale experiments. We recommend that you do the same thing.
Before we built the 8x8x8 LED cube, we started by making a smaller version of it, 4x4x4. By making the 4x4x4 version first, you can perfect your cube soldering technique before starting on the big one. Check out our 4x4x4 LED cube instructable for instructions on building a smaller "prototype". In order to make a nice looking LED cube, it is important that it is completely symmetrical, that the space between each LED is identical, and that each LED points the same way.
You don't want it to be to tight, as that would make it difficult to remove the soldered layer from the jig without bending it.
If the holes are too big, some of the LEDs might come out crooked. These indentions will prevent the drill from sliding sideways when you start drilling. If the hole is too snug, carefully drill it again until the LED fits snugly and can be pulled out without much resistance. A steel wire will be soldered in here in every layer to give the cube some extra stiffening. This means that you have to take some precautions in order to avoid broken LEDs. Soldering iron hygiene First of all, you need to keep your soldering iron nice and clean.
That means wiping it on the sponge every time you use it. The tip of your soldering iron should be clean and shiny. Whenever the you see the tip becoming dirty with flux or oxidizing, that means loosing it's shinyness, you should clean it.
Even if you are in the middle of soldering. Having a clean soldering tip makes it A LOT easier to transfer heat to the soldering target. Soldering speed When soldering so close to the LED body, you need to get in and out quickly.
Wipe your iron clean. Apply a tiny amount of solder to the tip. Touch the part you want to solder with the side of your iron where you just put a little solder. Let the target heat up for 0. You only need to apply a little bit.
Only the solder that is touching the metal of both wires will make a difference. A big blob of solder will not make the solder joint any stronger. Remove the soldering iron immediately MP3) applying the solder. Mistakes and cool down If you make a mistake, for example if the wires move before the solder hardens or you don't apply enough solder. Do not try again right away. At this point the LED is already very hot, and applying more heat with the soldering iron will only make it hotter.
Continue with the next LED and let it cool down for a minute, or blow on it to remove some heat. Solder We recommend using a thin solder for soldering the LEDs. This gives you a lot more control, and enable you to make nice looking solder joints without large blobs of solder. We used a 0. Don't use solder without flux.
If your solder is very old and the flux isn't cleaning the target properly, get newer solder. We haven't experienced this, but we have heard that it can happen. Are we paranoid? We also tested every LED after we finished soldering a layer. Some of the LEDs didn't work after being soldered in place. We considered these things before making a single solder joint.
Even with careful soldering, some LEDs were damaged. The last thing you want is a broken LED near the center of the cube when it is finished. The first and second layer from the outside can be fixed afterwards, but any further in than that, and you'll need endoscopic surgical tools. We got our LEDs from eBay, really cheap!
We tested some of the LED before we started soldering, and randomly stumbled on a LED that was a lot dimmer than the rest. So we decided to test every LED before using it. We found a couple of dead LEDs and some that were dimmer than the rest. This might be less of a problem if you are using LEDs that are more expensive, but we found it worth while to test our LEDs.
Get out your breadboard, connect a power supply and a resistor, then pop the LEDs in one at a time. You might also want to have another LED with its own resistor permanently on the breadboard while testing. This makes it easier to spot differences in brightness. At the top of each layer each LED is rotated 90 degrees clockwise, so that the leg connects with the top LED of the next column. On the column to the right this leg will stick out of the side of the layer.
We leave this in place and use it to connect ground when testing all the LEDs in a later step. Make sure the legs are bent in the same direction on all the LEDs. Looking at the LED sitting in a hole in the template with the notch to the right, we bent the leg upwards. Then place the one to the left, positioning it so that it's cathode leg is touching the cathode leg of the previous LED.
Rinse and repeat until you reach the left LED. Solder all the joints. That way your hand can rest on the wooden template when you solder. You will need a steady hand when soldering freehand like this. Start by placing the LED second from the top, aligning it so it's leg touches the solder joint from the previous step.
Repeat until you reach the bottom. At this point the whole thing is very flimsy, and you will need to add some support. We used one bracing near the bottom and one near the middle. Take a straight peace of wire, roughly align it where you want it and solder one end to the layer. Fine tune the alignment and solder the other end in place. Now, make solder joints to the remaining 6 columns.
Do this for both braces. Just mentioning here so you don't remove the layer just yet. Depending on the size of your holes, some LEDs might have more resistance when you try to pull it out. Simply grabbing both ends of the layer and pulling would probably break the whole thing if a couple of the LEDs are stuck. Start by lifting every single LED a couple of millimeters.
Just enough to feel that there isn't any resistance. When all the LEDs are freed from their holes, try lifting it carefully. If it is still stuck, stop and pull the stuck LEDs out. Repeat 8 times! Note on images: If you are having trouble seeing the detail in any of our pictures, you can views the full resolution by clicking on the little i icon in the top left corner of every image.
All our close up pictures are taken with a mini tripod and should have excellent macro focus. On the image page, choose the original size from the "Available sizes" menu on the left hand side.
Soldering that close to the body of the LED can damage the electronics inside. We strongly recommend that you test all LEDs before proceeding. Connect ground to the tab you left sticking out at the upper right corner. Connect a wire to 5V through a resistor. Take the wire and tap it against all 64 anode legs that are sticking up from your template.
If a LED doesn't flash when you tap it, that means that something is wrong. If everything checks out, pull the layer from the cube and start soldering the next one. In our opinion, a LED cube is a piece of art and should be perfectly symmetrical and straight.
If you look at the LEDs in your template from the side, they are probably bent in some direction. You want all the legs to point straight up, at a 90 degree angle from the template. While looking at the template from the side, straighten all the legs. Then rotate the template 90 degrees, to view it from the other side, then do the same process. You now have a perfect layer that is ready to be removed from the template.
To make a solder joint, we have to bend the anode leg so that it touches the anode leg on the LED below. Make a bend in the anode leg towards the cathode leg approximately 3mm from the end of the leg, Not Indestructable - I.C.H - 4 Track Demo (File.
This is enough for the leg to bend around the LED below and make contact with it's anode leg. Now comes the tricky part, soldering it all together! The first two layers can be quite flimsy before they are soldered together. You may want to put the first layer back in the template to give it some stability. In order to avoid total disaster, you will need something to hold the layer in place before it is soldered in place. Luckily, the width of a 9V battery is pretty close to 25 mm. Probably closer to We taped over the battery poles to avoid accidentally ruining the LEDs we were soldering.
We had plenty of 9V batteries lying around, so we used them as temporary supports. Start by placing a 9V battery in each corner. Make sure everything is aligned perfectly, then solder the corner LEDs. Now solder all the LEDs around the edge of the cube, moving the 9V batteries along as you go around. This will ensure that the layers are soldered perfectly parallel to each other.
Now move a 9V battery to the middle of the cube. Just slide it in from one of the sides. Solder a couple of the LEDs in the middle. The whole thing should be pretty stable at this point, and you can continue soldering the rest of the LEDs without using the 9V batteries for support.
However, if it looks like some of the LEDs are sagging a little bit, slide in a 9V battery to lift them up! When you have soldered all the columns, it is time to test the LEDs again. Remember that tab sticking out from the upper right corner of the layer, that we told you not to remove yet? Now it's time to use it. Take a piece of wire and solder the tab of the bottom layer to the tab of the layer you just soldered in place.
Connect ground to the the ground tab. Test each led using the same setup as you used when testing the individual layers. Since the ground layers have been connected by the test tabs, and all the anodes in each columns are connected together, all LEDs in a column should light up when you apply voltage to the top one. If the LEDs below it does not light up, MP3), it probably means that you forgot a solder joint! It is A LOT better to figure this out at this point, rather than when all the layers are soldered together.
The center of the cube is virtually impossible to get to with a soldering iron. For the next 6 layers, use the exact same process, but spend even more time aligning the corner LEDs before soldering them. Look at the cube from above, and make sure that all the corner LEDs are on a straight line when looking at them from above. Rinse and repeat! We didn't have any fancy tools at our disposal to create a fancy stand or box for our LED cube. Instead, we modified the template to work as a base for the cube.
We encourage you to make something cooler than we did for your LED cube! For the template, we only drilled a couple of mm into the wood. To transform the template into a base, we just drilled all the holes through the board.
Then we drilled 8 smaller holes for the 8 cathode wires running up to the 8 cathode layers. Of course, you don't want to have your LED cube on a wood colored base. We didn't have any black paint lying around, but we did find a giant black magic marker! Staining the wood black with a magic marker worked surprisingly well! I think the one we used had a 10mm point.
Mount the cube. That sounds very easy, but it's not. You have to align 64 LED legs to slide through 64 holes at the same time. It's like threading a needle, times We found it easiest to start with one end, then gradually popping the legs into place. Use a pen or something to poke at the LED legs that miss their holes. Once all 64 LED legs are poking through the base, carefully turn it on it's side.
Then bend all 64 legs 90 degrees. This is enough to hold the cube firmly mounted to the base. No need for glue or anything else. You now have a LED cube with 64 anode connections on the underside of the base.
But you need to connect the ground layers too. Remember those 8 small holes you drilled in a previous step?
We are going to use them now. Make some straight wire using the method explained in a previous step. We start with ground for layer 0. Take a short piece of straight wire, Make a bend approximately 10mm from the end.
Poke it through the hole for ground layer 0. Leave 10mm poking through the underside of the base. Position it so that the bend you made rests on the back wire of ground layer 0. Now solder it in place. Layer 1 through 7 are a little trickier.
We used a helping hand to hold the wire in place while soldering. Take a straight piece of wire and bend it 90 degrees 10mm from the end. Then cut it to length so that 10mm of wire will poke out through the underside of the base. Poke the wire through the hole and let the wire rest on the back wire of the layer you are connecting. Clamp the helping hand onto the wire, then solder it in place. Rinse and repeat 7 more times. Carefully turn the cube on it's side and bend the 8 ground wires 90 degrees.
We used ribbon cable to make things a little easier. The ground layers use an 8-wire ribbon cable. The cathodes are connected with 4 wire ribbon cables. Each of these ribbon cables are split in two at either end, to get two 8-wire cables. At the controller side, we attached 0. These plug into standard 0. The header connector is a modular connector that comes in two parts, metal inserts and a plastic body. The metal inserts are supposed to be crimped on with a tool. We didn't have the appropriate tool on hand, so we used pliers.
We also added a little solder to make sure the wires didn't fall of with use. Pre-tin the cables before soldering! The red stripe on the first wire indicates that this is bit 0.
See pictures below. Our 8 wire ribbon cable didn't have a red wire. Just flip the connector degrees if your cube is upside-down. We took out the biggest type of PCB we had available 9x15cm and started experimenting with different board layouts. It soon became clear that cramming all the components onto one board wasn't a good solution.
Instead we decided to separate the latch array and power supply part of the circuit and place it on a separate board. A ribbon cable transfers data lines between the two boards. Choosing two separate boards was a good decision. The latch array took up almost all the space of the circuit board. There wouldn't have been much space for the micro controller and other parts. You may not have the exact same circuit boards as we do, or may want to arrange your components in a different way.
Try to place all the components on your circuit board to see which layout best fits your circuit board. The cube is complete, now all that remains is a monster circuit to control the thing. Let's start with the easiest part, the "power supply".
Initially, we had designed an on-board power supply using an LM step down voltage regulator. However, this turned out to be a big fail. We used this with a 12V wall wart. But as you may already know, most wall warts output higher voltages than the ones specified on the label. Ours outputted something like 14 volts. The LM isn't a very sophisticated voltage regulator, it just uses resistance to step down the voltage. To get 5 MP3) output from 14 volts input means that the LM has to drop 9 volts.
The excess energy is dispersed as heat. Even with the heat sink that you see in the picture, it became very very hot. Way to hot to touch! In addition to that, the performance wasn't great either. It wasn't able to supply the necessary current to run the cube at full brightness. The LM was later removed, and a wire was soldered between the input and output Not Indestructable - I.C.H - 4 Track Demo (File.
Instead we used an external 5V power source, as covered in a previous step. Why so many capacitors? The LED cube is going to be switching about mA on and off several hundred times per second. The moment the mA load is switched on, the voltage is going to drop across the entire circuit. Many things contribute to this. Resistance in the wires leading to the power supply, slowness in the power supply to compensate for the increase in load, and probably some other things that we didn't know about ; By adding capacitors, you create a buffer between the circuit and the power supply.
When the mA load is switched on, the required current can be drawn from the capacitors during the time it takes the power supply to compensate for the increase in load. Large capacitors can supply larger currents for longer periods of time, whereas smaller capacitors can supply small but quick bursts of energy. We placed a uF capacitor just after the main power switch. This works as our main power buffer. After that, there is a uF capacitor. It is common practice to have a large capacitor at the input pin of an LM and a smaller capacitor at it's output pin.
The uF capacitor probably isn't necessary, but we think capacitors make your circuit look cooler! In this step you will be soldering in the main components of the multiplexer array. Our main design consideration here was to minimize soldering and wiring. We opted to place the connectors as close to the ICs as possible. On the output-side, there is only two solder joints per LED cube column.
IC-resistor, resistor-connector. The outputs of the latches are arranged in orderso this works out great. If we remember correctly, the latch we are using is available in two versions, one with the inputs and outputs in sequential order, and one with the in- and outputs in seemingly random order. Do not get that one! In the first picture, you can see that we have placed all the IC sockets, resistors and connectors.
We squeezed it as tight as possible, to leave room for unforeseen stuff in the future, like buttons or status LEDs. In the second picture, you can see the solder joints between the resistors and the IC sockets and connectors.
Note that the input side of the latch IC sockets haven't been soldered yet in this picture. Remember that protoboard soldering trick we showed you in a previous step? We told you it would come in handy, and here is where you use it. Large circuit boards like this one, with lots of wires, can become quite confusing.
We solder them as continuous solder lines. In the first picture you can see some solder traces in place. The two horizontal traces is the "main power bus". We went a little overboard when making straight wire for the cube, and had some pieces left over. We used that for the VCC line that runs under the resistors. Look how easy it is to see what is signal wires and what is power distribution! In the second picture, you can see the board right-side-up, with some additional components soldered in, just ignore them for the moment.
These are noise reduction capacitors. When the current on the output pins are switched on and off, this can cause the voltage to drop enough to mess with the internal workings of the ICs, for a split second. This is unlikely, but it's better to be safe than sorry. Debugging a circuit with noise issues can be very frustrating.
Besides, capacitors make the circuit look that much cooler and professional! The nF capacitors make sure that there is some current available right next to the IC in case there is a sudden drop in voltage. We read somewhere that it is common engineering practice to place a nF capacitor next to every IC, "Use them like candy".
We tend to follow that principle. Below each row of resistors, you can see a tiny piece of wire. We also added a capacitor on the far end of the main power bus, for good measure. In the picture, you'll notice a lot of wires have come into place.
At the top of the board, we have added a 16 pin connector. This connects the latch board to the micro controller board. Next to that, you see the 74HC The tiny blue wires are Kynar wire. This is a 30 or 32 AWG american wire gauge wire. Very tiny. We love working with this type of wire. Because it is so thin, it doesn't take up that much space on the circuit board. If we had used thicker wire, you wouldn't be able to see the board through all the wires.
Kynar wire is coated with tin, so you can solder directly after stripping it. No need for pre-tinning. The tiny blue wires are connected to the same pin on every latch IC. From the connector at the top, you can see 8 green wires connected to the bus. This is the 8 bit data bus. We used different colors for different functions to better visualize how the circuit is built.
The orange wire connected to the bus is the output enable OE line. On the right hand side of the connector, the first pin is connected to ground. We call this an address selector because it selects which one of the 8 bytes in the latch array we want to write data to. The three blue wires running from the connector to the 74HC is the 3 bit binary input used to select which of the 8 outputs is pulled low.
From each of the outputs on the 74HC, there is a wire white running to the clock pin on the corresponding 74HC latch IC.
Then connect the address lines and the 8 clock lines.
I purchased a Sony digital voice recorder. I can mount the file system under Linux, but I haven't been able to find where it stores the track marks. id3v2 shows me that one of my mp3 recordings contains a byte GEOB frame. I'd like to extract this before and after adding a track mark to see if my track marks are hiding in here. Possible duplicate of Extract wav file from video file – John Wu Jul 8 '17 at I think your question should be "How can I programmatically set the description of an mp3 in c#". It sounds like you're totally capable of mp4 -> mp3, you just need help setting the description. About File Formats. MP3 is a digital audio format without digital rights management (DRM) technology. Because our MP3s have no DRM, you can play it on any device that supports MP3, even on your iPod! KBPS stands for kilobits per second and the number of KBPS represents the audio quality of the MP3s/5(29). Jun 03, · A self-produced effort, Indestructible is the first Disturbed album that did not feature Johnny K, the producer of Disturbed’s previous three albums, . Jun 20, · Source File for Track "xxx" Could Not Be Found. all of the tracks that give this message seem to be in the same folder. there is no blue icon on the right side or any other indication that there is something wrong. i am doing each one manually by drag and drop. As a Disturbed fan, I naturally received the announcement of their hiatus several years ago with disappointment, but the band had made apparent with Asylum, and even as early as Indestructible, that their career could not continue on the backs of increasingly threadbare concepts.I had hoped that Immortalized would mark the beginning of a new era for Disturbed, welcoming back into the fold a. The following songs recorded by Madonna were not released commercially. Some songs have been given to other recording artists for recording. The list encompasses studio-quality recording by Madonna that were not commercially or promotionally released by a reputable label, documented demo versions of songs not released in any form, early demo versions of released songs where there is a. LED Cube 8x8x8: Create your own 8x8x8 LED Cube 3-dimensional display! We believe this Instructable is the most comprehensive step-by-step guide to build an 8x8x8 LED Cube ever published on the intertubes. It will teach you everything from theory of operation, how . Overall Indestructible turned to be more aggressive album. Here and there you can find things that look pretty different from Disturbed's past New Metal efforts. It concerns both the sound and performing manner. For example the main theme on a track called Divide is one of the most aggressive and fast riffs in the history of this band. Stream Indestructible (feat. MAX) by NOT YOUR DOPE from desktop or your mobile device. SoundCloud. Indestructible (feat. MAX) by NOT YOUR DOPE published on TZ. Users who reposted this track Playboy ekrem. unclepa unclepa. MyCoffee. STUB Sounds Travis Bicknell. Rajdeep Goswami. Rajdeep Goswami. Gauhati,Assam. ĶŒŦ.
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